Situated in Seward

Notice: You are jumping into the middle of a ongoing adventure.  Devan and I arrived in Alaska two weeks ago on Thursday, May 30th and a lot has happened since.  I've been meaning to jump on my computer and update this blog, but life has been happening.  Fortunately, during in my ongoing fight against forgetfulness, I've kept a notebook, written notes on my computer, and have been taking photographs along the way. I thank Justin Valentine for the quote: "A photo a day helps the memories stay."  I will update the past couple of weeks and time stamp the dates accordingly and get this blog up and running properly

Channel 16: "Securitae, securitae, securitae ...

Devan woke up early today to join Alex on a Cain's head half-day trip.  I've already been to Cain's head and had made plans with Gentle Ben to meet up at 13:00 to complete my wet re-entry training to become a qualified kayak guide - at least by the standards of Miller's Landing.  Chance's philosophy about kayaking is simplified with the word "sea-time" - get out on the water, practice, work and you'll learn  (Note: Chance Miller is one of the owners of Miller Landing. He was the youngest captain in Seward and hold an impressive wealth of nautical, meteorological, and engineering knowledge in addition to being a hilarious and genuine person and All-around GGG). The results of this much more do-it learning style, as opposed to reading and theory, have been very exciting and personal.  I've done a bunch of kayaking and paddling growing up in an out-doorsy New Hampshire family and had some sense on the water.  However, it wasn't until the past week that I fully appreciated many of the subtleties of kayaking: controlling the core, finding a rhythm, pushing not pulling, and more protips that I anticipate I'll realize as I continue to paddle, observe other more experienced kayak guides, and read some books on the side.

While waiting for 13:00, I spent some time in the office playing the Gibson.  The office has two acoustic guitars and one acoustic bass (although it is missing three strings :/ ) that anyone can grab, pluck, and sing with.  I've found a handful of musicians over the past week or so and we've slowly, but surely, moving toward a deliberate jam session.  On Saturday's Miller's Landing Hosts an Pot-Luck Dinner, so hopefully we'll break into song between refilling plates with fried halibut.  Considering Trampus sings (I'm guessing in a metal band), Liz Duda has a mandolin, BR can play some mean guitar/bass and can also sing, and I can play guitar, some make-shift drums, and can sing we may be able to pull together a unique and gnarly band and secure a gig in town at a bar.  The song list is also growing:

Whiskey You're the Devil by Some Irish Guy

Brandy, You're a Fine Girl by Looking Glass

 I Will Follow You Into the Dark by Death Cab for Cutie

Ramblin' Man by The Allman Brother's Band

Gay Pirates by Cosmo Jarvis

and more to come ... [let me know if you have any recommendations]

Oh man these waves are huge

1:12 PM rolled around and by that time Devan had returned from Cain's head and would join us for the training.  He's been waiting on the mail for a water-proof ear bud to arrive so he complete his training, but since Shirley inadvertently returned his package thinking it had been an incorrect delivery he will have to wait a couple of days to complete his training (includes flipping the boat).

An hour and a half roll by before we make it out into the water due to communication break-down, but now with full bellies we all make our way to the landing with our kayaks, wet suits, and Gentle Ben has been training us in the art of lifesaving.

But Seriously --- this water is cold.  The water in front of the landing is around 43 degrees Fahrenheit and by the glaciers can get well below 32 degrees Fahrenheit (salt-water = freezing point depression) such as by Pederson Glacier. We've been training in wet suits so we can perfrom repeat exercises without freezing, however, if we were in our normal kayaking gear we'd be hypothermic under 20 minutes.

Always use the clip for extra comfort and protection when equipping your paddle with a float

The re-entry technique we've been learning is the paddle-float technique, which involves attaching a foam block to the end of the paddle to help stabilize the kayak like a make-shift catamaran

 as you climb up and get your soaked and shivering bum back in your seat. We had practiced wet re-entry in relatively calm waters a day before our Aialik and Northwestern adventure.  Today was far from calm.  Starting off, we had high southern winds and two foot waves and as we progressed the waves grew up to about five feet with white caps, also known as perfect weather for training.

Rather than explaining the technique in detail you can watch this video of a guy doing the same thing, except he is in a flat pool:

Channel 16 is the main channel that everyone monitors, including the coast guard, so to begin we had to call a securitae to let everyone know who we are, what we are doing, and where we are - basically a  heads up that we don't need assistance.  *Securitae is a call used for mariner safety, navigation, or weather warnings.  The other more serious calls are pan pronounced "pon", which indicates a ship or vessel is in danger, and mayday, which means you are in grave and imminent danger.  Gentle Ben suggested that if we were to call a mayday while in Resurrection Bay,we could have 10 boats out by us in a couple of minutes. 

*A link about these three calls: http://www.examiner.com/article/three-radio-calls-you-need-to-heed

It's the little details that matter

One of these people will be suddenly very cold

We eventually finished our self-rescue and moved on to assisted rescue, namely the second most important task we can perform as a life guard - second since we're useless if we can't get back into our own boats.  Ben jumped into a wet suit and joined us out in the open waters.  Paddling past a pair of sea otters, or sea weasels as Tramp likes to call them, into the open water in front of Miller's landing, the magnitude of the waves became an exciting and useful obstacle for training.  Ben was slightly much more nervous since he would actually be entering the water, but he felt comfortable with us to assist him in re-enter. 

Devan has almost made it back into his boat

We practiced doing 360s and 180s in the now five foot waves before Ben would bail out of his boat. I realized the key to coping with big waves is similar to practicing meditation.  Maintaining control requires allowing the wave to pass through you without resistance: recognize it is there, keep your core strong, and relax as the wave moves you about.  People often flip because they try to resist the wave or become overwhelmed by the size and irregular cadence of the waves.

Now confident with my ability to maneuver in the high waves, Ben tipped himself and called for help.  As a guide, it is important to remember people are going to be panicking when they flip and our first job is to calm them down and have them secure their kayak.  The kayak is their lifeline while the paddle can be abandoned since I have an extra paddle and a toe rope if needed.  I pulled up to Ben and talked him through the steps of re-entry while securing his boat with my arms.  The technique is essential the same as the paddle float re-entry, except they the guide provides the extra balance instead of the paddle float.  I was able to get him back into the boat, however, his boat filled up with an exceptional amount of water from a passing wave.  Devan came over and helped provide extra stability as Ben started to bail his entire boat.  Awkward arms webbed around his body holding on the edge of the cockpit as Ben pumped furiously to bail his boat. I noticed the stern of his boat was significantly lower than the bow of my boat when he had finished, but dismissed the detail since the cockpit was clear - an oversight which proved costly.

After regrouping, Ben flipped himself again.  This time we were not as successful.  Each time he attempted to lift himself onto the back of the boat, the entire stern sunk deep underwater.  The back compartment had filled with water and was no longer providing the buoyancy need to support his weight. Devan and I attempted to tip and bail the boat using a T-rescue method, but in high waves that was far too difficult and risky.  Ben tried to grab on to the front of my kayak so that I could toe him into shore - think of one of those majestic naked mermaids on the front of an old wooden ship but backwards, latched on monkey style with both arms and legs, wearing a dark wet-suit and a yellow rubber swimming cap. Ben realized this was a poor technique and decided to abandon the boat to swim to shore and collect a toe line.

Devan and I now were attempting to stabilize a rogue floating cement block containing far too much inertia to urge toward the shore.  Another kayak guide, Ryan, was fortunately nearby and quickly jumped in his boat with a line to pull it to shore so we could bail and bring it back safely.

A poorly secured neoprene compartment cover was responsible for the fiasco and in cold-open waters far from shore or the dock could have been a serious risk.  Good thing we learned that lesson close to home.

Ben was extremely pleased with our performance and had many good things to say about our character and ability to perform under stressful situations.  He said that we have the perfect personalities to be guides since we are both friendly and nice, but can command a situation and reassure people when deliberate action is needed.

Up until now, I've felt like I have been at summer camp. But now, with training almost finished (tomorrow we're going to do a little more), I am feeling like a proper guide. I have been enjoying physical and mental challenge of training and am extremely happy we landed these fun and rewarding jobs with a loving, talented, and interesting group of people.  Devan and I could be working on a slime line at the cannery making a lot more money, but money wasn't the main goal of this trip.  It was adventure.

Eats

I've been cooking well and creatively.  Today: Ginger Cranberry Quinoa with leftover chops of sweet potatoes from lunch and ground sage.

Thought to take a picture rather late into the meal

Quinoa has lots of protein, is super simple to cook, and is filling.  Devan and I have been jousting over our food budget - when hungry he insists that his people need a constant supply of meat to stay fed; I parry by saying we are not in a period of plenty and need to watch what we eat since we are using our bodies alot and food is expensive in Alaska.  We need to focus on putting only the best things in our body for the best price.

In addition:

The world continues to spin while I'm out on open water and I learn about cool things through derping around or from links that people send me.  I plan on posting a least one of these cool links or articles at the bottom of every posting.  Here is the first batch

Sahara Forest Project - Greening the desert: energy, food, and water

Google Loon - Balloon powered internet around the globe in the stratosphere

Filter Bubbles - How a personalized internet censors what you see

Okay, off to bed.

My smile is my offering; eating is my portion

Waiting for the bus to go to church!

Always in the mood for a diversity of experiences, I hoped in a taxi (convi) with Leslie, Andrew, Maren, Mallory, Kameron, and Lebo to go to the Christ - Citadel Internationl Church of Botswana located at Plot 36126, Mmamekue Street to fill me up with some gospel music.

Colorful laundry and flowers outside a house on our walk to the church. 

I've been to a Southern Baptist Service in New Orleans and found that was a good primer: joyous singing and dancing; greeting your neighbors with handshakes, high fives, and hugs; testimony by selected members; donation - immediately followed by more joyous music; ending with a sermon with scripture. June is the month/season of spiritual rains (which is ironic/fitting since it hasn't rained a drop since we've arrived here) and the theme was repeated with imagery of a showering of blessings to fall upon us - adding value to our lives.

The church was covered with blue and white cloth on the rafters, supports, and walls creating a comfortable flowing atmosphere, especially with light streaming through the fabric.  Initial music selections were pulled form a small blue spiral bound book called Hymns of Faith.

Apparently Lebo takes singing lessons; look at those furrowed eyebrows.

When asked for donations I almost fell over on the gigantic guilt trip the pastor pulled on the congregation.  "Holding back your offering is stealing from the church," he said. Then he asked for the congregation to call back response, "I am not a robber, I am a giver ... I add value where ever I am." 

I was unconvinced by the trip, but that didn't stop me from donating.  I appreciate what congregations can provide for a community: a central location to gather and share love and music with new and old friends; a sense of security and safety.  I see church largely as social tool - herding people to a focused mindset and allowing them to pick between narrowly defined hyperbolic alternatives while asking them to ignore the nuanced positions in between.  However, I think atheists and non-church goers miss out on the collaborative element of a service that can bring power to ideas.

I don't need an afterlife to love the life I got.

In the New York Magazine article "Do Atheists Need A Church of Their Own: If God Is Dead Who Gets His House," Tim Gorski, a Texas physician, who started the North Texas Church of Freethought, is quoted: “[Church] binds people together and relates them to one another and gives them each a personal, private, and, of course, quite subjective understanding of themselves and their world.” [1] From my two hour service, I can say the C.I.C. certainly performs this duty.

The sermon was focused  on the phrase "Eating is my portion" and was alluding to digesting the word of Christ. This part of the sermon came at a time when I was remarkably hungry and the message resonated within my belly. 

Today I have been working on my final report and tonight we are going to have a BBQ hosted by Andrew Wang.

~

Reference:

[1] http://nymag.com/news/features/46214/index1.html

Botswana v. South Africa

Shapa Zebra Shapaaaaa!!!! = Beat Zebras Beat ... which I guess means Score Zebras Score

Fortunate to have a stadium within a 10 minute walk from our dorms, all the US students and many of the Botswana students ponied up the 50 Pula (50 / 7 = $7.14) to watch Botswana and South Africa duke it out for qualifier points toward the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil.  South Africa which hosted the 2010 World Cup is a strong opponent and is a tough rival to Botswana.  South Africa's team is called Bafana Bafana, a name that came from the team formed post-Apartheid which affectionately translates to: little boys, little boys [citation: Lebo].  Botswana are the Zebras, with uniforms that match the flag and the scene at the game: all black players dressed in blue and white with a clear blue sky. South Africa is a mix of white and black players.

Traditional dancers entertain before the game.

Botswana came out strong, working lots of quick passes and moved up and around the field quickly as the fan screamed for every successful pass and cross.  At 13 minutes, Botswana became silent as when Morgan Gould popped a header in past the Botswana keeper - who honestly had been sleeping since the starting whistle. 

This shot was saved by Botswana and was probably my best shot of the game. 

Despite an early disappointment, the Zebras kept pushing and tied up the game 1:1 in 38th minute when Ofentse Nato scored as South Africa tried to clear a rebounded shot.

Happy fans willingly posed for a photo after the game

The game ended up as a tie at 1:1 giving both Botswana and South Africa one qualifying point. "The result means that Group A is now led by the Central African Republic on three points, while South Africa have two and Botswana share bottom spot with Ethiopia on a single point." [1]

Proof that I was at the game

Reference:

[1] http://www.goal.com/en/match/77962/botswana-vs-south-africa/report 

Dumela!

Smile. You are about to read my blog!

The smiling guy doing a self-shot portrait with water buffalo in the background,  that's me: Brian Broom-Peltz. I've decided to gather the scraps of notes and pictures I've taken of the last couple of weeks during my visit to Botswana and mold them into something similar to a coherent blog. 

To start it off: a quick feature of Botswana and why I've been here for the last couple of weeks.

Botswana is a land-locked nation the size of Texas with a population of ~2 million. I am staying at the University of Botswana located in the capital city of Gabarone that hosts about 10% of the total population [wikipedia: Gabarone].  The weather is dry and generally cloudless during the day, chilly at night (Pro tip: it is winter).

UBots - as we affectionately have been calling it - was founded in 1982 after a successful national fund raising effort known as One Man, One Beast was able to raise ~1 million rand (South African currency) in donations of cattle, cash, grain, and other donations [learned this by asking students from UB and by checking out the wikipedia: University of Botswana]. Statues of farmers with cattle branded UB are found in front of the library and by the University stadium.

I get to walk past this statue on my way to lab (white building in the background)

A couple months ago, I applied and was invited to join the National Science Foundation (NSF) sponsored Research Experience for Undergraduates (REU) hosted by Case Western Reserve University at the University of Botswana named: "Sustainable Energy Research in Sub-Saharan Africa".  Not being one to turn down all-expense paid intercontinental travel, I accepted the invitation and have been having a blast ever since.  

For the past 3+ weeks I have been working under the guidance of Cosmos Muiva, a physics PhD candidate at the University of Botswana synthesizing and characterizing indium-doped zinc oxide thin films.  His dissertation is focused on the synthesis and characterization of conductive thin films for electrode applications.  Below, I am am posing with him in front of an XRD (X-ray Diffraction) machine located in the geology department. 

Quality time with the funniest man in the department

Throughout my research, I have partnered with the kind and brilliant Karabo Nikkie Ditsala, a student from the University of Botswana. Nikki has been attending the University of Botswana for the past two years and will be heading off to Canada to complete a degree in manufacturing engineering with scholarship.

Nikki holding a bouquet of red and orange bougainvillea that grows on campus. 

Together, over the course of three weeks, we have managed to familiarize ourselves with prior research literature, synthesize and characterize indium-doped zinc oxide thin films, present our initial findings to the other research students, and draft up a final report. We will complete our final report by  the end of our fourth week and will post it here.

In addition to academic research, I have also been exploring the country, culture, and language (Setswana); but I'll post more about those things in another post. 

P.S. Dumela means hello.  You just learned your first word of Setswana!